Andrew Dickens’ New England fish chowder brings together tender potatoes, generous flakes of fish and a rich, creamy broth with a gentle lick of smoke. The fish is smoked first, then added to a cast iron pot as the chowder bubbles away in the Charlie Oven. Serve it steaming hot with fresh chives and crisp crackers crumbled over the top.
This recipe was cooked by Andrew Dickens during his BBQ Around the World masterclass at Charlie Oven.
- Preparation time: 25 minutes
- Cooking time: 50 to 60 minutes
- Serves: 10 to 12 as a starter
- Charlie Oven temperature: 100°C/212°F, then 180 to 200°C/356 to 392°F
- Cooking method: Hot smoking and simmering
- Charlie accessories: Perforated plancha and cooking racks
- Other equipment: Large cast iron pot or Dutch oven, baking parchment and a flat-bed plancha or baking tray if needed
Ingredients
- 50g salted butter
- A splash of neutral cooking oil
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 2 celery sticks, finely chopped
- 150g plain flour
- 1.2kg potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces
- 900g mixed fish
- 200ml whole milk
- 300ml single cream
- 500 to 750ml fish stock
- Salt and black pepper
- 20g fresh chives, finely chopped
- Salt and pepper crackers, to serve
For smoking
- 1 small chunk of apple, cherry, birch or another mild smoking wood, or 1 handful of dry wood chips
Prepare the potatoes and fish
- Parboil the potatoes for 5 to 10 minutes, until they are beginning to soften but still hold their shape. Drain well and set aside.
- Check the fish carefully, removing any skin and bones. Cut larger pieces into similar sizes so they cook evenly.
Set up your Charlie Oven
Light around half a football’s worth of good-quality lumpwood charcoal. Build the fire towards the back of the Charlie Oven and bring it to 100°C/212°F.
Keeping the fire at the back prevents the cast iron pot from sitting directly above the strongest heat. This helps stop the chowder catching later in the cook.
Place a cooking rack in the middle of the oven.
Line the perforated plancha with baking parchment to make cleaning easier, then pierce the paper all over so the smoke can reach the fish.
Smoke the fish
- Add one small chunk of mild smoking wood or one handful of dry wood chips to the hot charcoal. There is no need to soak the chips.
- Wait for the initial heavy smoke to clear and a thin stream of clean smoke to come from the chimney.
- Arrange the fish on the lined perforated plancha and place it on the middle rack.
- Smoke for around 20 minutes, carefully turning the fish after 10 minutes.
- Remove the fish from the Charlie Oven and set it aside.
Make the chowder
- Open the vents and bring the Charlie Oven up to 180 to 200°C/356 to 392°F. Keep the charcoal towards the back throughout the cook.
- Put the butter and a splash of oil into a large cast iron pot or Dutch oven. Place it on a lower rack, towards the front of the oven and away from the strongest direct heat.
- Once the butter has melted, add the onion and celery. Cook for around 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly coloured.
- Add the flour and stir well. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring regularly to cook out the flour without letting it catch.
- Carefully remove the pot from the oven. Add the potatoes, milk, cream and 500ml of the fish stock.
- Break the smoked fish into generous flakes and gently fold it through the chowder.
- Return the pot to the middle rack and simmer the chowder uncovered for 20 to 30 minutes. Stir every 5 minutes, making sure the spoon reaches the bottom of the pot.
- If the chowder becomes too thick, add the remaining fish stock a little at a time until it reaches the consistency you like.
- If the base begins to catch, place a flat-bed plancha or baking tray on a rack between the charcoal and the pot to soften the direct heat.
- The chowder is ready when the potatoes are tender, the fish flakes easily and everything is piping hot.
- Taste before adding salt, as the butter and fish stock may already be seasoned. Finish with black pepper and salt as needed.
Serve
Spoon the chowder into warm bowls and scatter over the chopped chives. Serve with salt and pepper crackers for dipping or crumbling over the top for a little crunch.
Cook’s notes
Firm white fish such as cod, haddock, hake or pollock works well because it holds its shape. Adding some salmon or another richer fish will give the chowder more depth.
Fresh clams or tinned clam meat can also be added.
Milk, cream and butter absorb smoke very easily, so use just one small chunk of mild wood or one handful of dry chips. The smoke should sit quietly behind the fish rather than take over.
The 150g of flour will make a very thick chowder. Keep the remaining fish stock close by and add it gradually until the consistency is right.
A little chowder history
New England chowder grew from a much older tradition of making soups and stews with local fish and shellfish. Indigenous communities had long cooked with the region’s seafood, including hard-shelled clams known as quahogs. European settlers later made versions using the day’s catch, broth and hard ship’s biscuits.
The name may come from the French word chaudière, meaning a cauldron or cooking pot. Today, New England chowder is known for its creamy base, potatoes and seafood, often served with small crisp crackers.
Frequently asked questions
Which fish works best in fish chowder?
Firm white fish such as cod, haddock, hake or pollock works well because it holds its shape. Combine it with salmon or another richer fish if you would like more depth.
How much smoking wood should I use?
Use one small chunk of apple, cherry, birch or another mild wood, or one handful of dry wood chips. Do not add any more wood while the chowder cooks, as the creamy broth absorbs smoke very easily.
Why use a perforated plancha?
The holes allow smoke to reach the fish. Lining the plancha with pierced baking parchment makes cleaning easier without blocking the smoke.
Where should I place the charcoal?
Build the fire towards the back of the Charlie Oven. Place the cast iron pot towards the front so it is not directly above the strongest heat.
How do I stop the chowder catching?
Keep the charcoal towards the back, place the pot away from the direct heat and stir the chowder every 5 minutes. If necessary, put a flat-bed plancha or baking tray between the fire and the pot.
Can I make fish chowder in advance?
Yes. Cool it quickly, cover and refrigerate it. Reheat gently until piping hot, stirring regularly. Add a little fish stock or milk if it has thickened and avoid reheating it more than once.